2006-2011 Aprilia RXV, SXV, MXV 4.5/5.△The tire producer / manufacturer of the tires you are buying, and Canadian Tire is responsible for the recycling fee that is included in your invoice.RSV Tuono, Tuono R, Tuono Racing, and Tuono Factory (2002-2005).Aprilia Owner Rides, Trackdays, Meetings, and Events.Aprilia Owner's Pictures, Videos, and Sounds.Quick Navigation RSV1000 Mille, Mille R, and Mille SP (1998-2003) Top If more force is required, you can welld this assembly together and to the easy-out If necessary you could place a piece of square stock in the tubing to help prevent it from twisting. Slip a piece of square tubing over the end of the easy out. These guys sell 18" lengths of square tool steel in small sizes: I think you would leave the rest of the tool steel shaft unhardened so it is not too brittle to withstand the twisting forces during removal. Once you have shaped it then you just heat the tapered end and quench it in old motor oil. Buy a regular length square style screw extractor if necessary to use as a template for shaping the end of the tool steel. You can grind tapers on one end as needed to bite into the hole drilled into the bolt. You can buy a piece of square tool steel that is ready to be quench hardened. You can make a 12 " easy out with a grinder, a torch and a piece of tool steel. Here are a few more suggestions for what they are worth. Right now I'm trying NOT to take the easy way out and buy a 3rd motorĪs stated in previous posts, it should not take a tramendous amount of force to remove this kind of broken bolt once you can find/make a tool to reach it. Your PM was right, f*d up place to have a bolt break.
I'm going to be addressing my problem this weekend. In my mind, that is the next step, and only if I can't get it out this way. The three machine shops I called all said "thanks but no" unless the motor was pulled out or could be laid on it's side. I did some test drilling last night on the part of the bolt that came out and I know that I can drill it straight and the width LHDB i have ordered is correct. Then when i went to tighten the case bolt (to close the leak) the bolt bottomed out. KZ-Mille suspected that the engine mounting bolts were torqued in the wrong order, thus creating pull (apart)force on the case. I believe your suspicions are correct about it bottoming out. The bolt was the OEM bolt and to my knowledge, had never been changed. TRex - If you can come up with a better solution I am more than open to suggestions. What should I ask when talking to the machine shop about an extension for the drill bit? How should I phrase it? (This is my first foray into customised tools ) KZ-Mille: I have found this shop in Florida and they are willing to make me a custom LHDB for about $120 and it should be here by friday.
(I took the picture with the bolt in, the socket head cap bolt is sheared as can be seen in picture #3) I will be tapping a hole in the remaining part of the bolt tonight. TRex - Please see picture #2 in this post from Friday: The crank case bolt broke off in the case and I need about 8-10 inches in order to drill from outside the frame through the recessed bolt hole to the part of the bolt that is still in there. I will re-google with "Left Hand Aircraft" and see what I get. Sean - I emailed irwin directly and they do not have, nor are they willing to customise a long shaft left hand drill bit.
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